Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 281 - Model #158 - 2011   

One piece swimsuit with bust gathers

 

    Hello there Lutterloh sewists. I have a vacation coming up soon so I thought I would try a Lutterloh swimsuit pattern. As you can see, mine didn't come out quite the same as the fashion drawing.

 

Pattern Hints:

    This pattern was easy enough to enlarge to my size but once it was finished I could tell I would have some issues with it. The first thing I noticed was that the width of the crotch area seemed awfully narrow. The straps also seemed to point at an odd angle but I plodded on thinking this may just be an anomaly created by the gathers in front. Since this was just a test garment I wanted to evaluate it based on as few changes as possible. I did make my normal adjustments for length as I would for any other Lutterloh pattern. The best part of sewing this pattern was that all the pieces fit together very well.

 

Design Changes:

    Although I didn't make any design changes to my original swimsuit I would need to make quite a few to end up with a wearable one piece swimsuit. As you can see from my finished photo this really ended up being a top for a tankini suit. Once finished, all the flaws in this pattern were readily apparent. The most obvious was that the body was way too short. I would need to add at least 1.5 inches to the length to get the bust anywhere near where it should be. The seam that should be under the bust was much too low. Strangely enough the overall length of the suit was adequate but the length was all in the straps area.

     If the length were the only issue I could have just added a band at the waist to extend it but the whole crotch area was not salvageable. The front and back crotch were both too narrow so the coverage was skimpy at best. The front leg area was surprisingly low compared to the back. In back the suit only covered about half of my butt cheeks. I don't mind a high cut leg as long as the back has good coverage. Lastly, although the top and bottom front pieces fit together like a dream, I had so much trouble with the gathering stitches at the top. My threads kept breaking so I decided to call this close enough and moved on. I think if I had been able to gather it as much as was intended it may have been too low anyway.

    Once I realized that there was no way I could wear this suit I decided to cut it off right at the top of the leg holes. I still had to shorten the straps to get the bust seam up where it should be. I think I will need to add some elastic to the bottom to keep this from riding up in the back. It still feels sort of loose and now that I've used another pattern to complete a well fitting swimsuit I can understand why. Below are photos of my swimsuit from a Stretch & Sew pattern. I laid the new back pattern on top of this Lutterloh pattern to show the contrast in their shapes. I can't compare the fronts because they're completely different styles

                                    

    If you look at the shapes of the back pattern pieces you can see why this Lutterloh pattern didn't work for me. Not only is the waistline too low but it's also considerably wider than the Stretch & Sew pattern. If I add length to the pattern to get the waist in the correct place then the straps end up way too long and the whole pattern is still just too wide. Then there's the crotch area to contend with. Not only does the bottom seam area of the crotch need to be at least half an inch wider but the entire butt area needs a completely different shape. I'm glad I tested this pattern with a swimwear fabric that I had in abundance. The swimwear lining and elastic was a bit of a waste. In the end I realized I needed a new pattern altogether so I still ended up with a new swimsuit that I love. Oh well. lesson learned.

 

Closing Hints:

    Even though this particular Lutterloh pattern didn't work for me I'm still glad I gave it a try. I think someone shorter than about 5'5" could still use this pattern with some modifications. I would absolutely recommend a test run first. 

Here's hoping you have some fun sewing plans ahead. Until next time........

 

Happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 333 - Model #110 - (2024)

Button front blouse with ruffle collar

 

    Hi there fellow Lutterloh enthusiasts. Spring is in the air and my favorite sewing patterns are coming together. Since it's so warm where I live I find the Winter sewing patterns often don't appeal as much to me. This particular blouse pattern is actually sleeveless but the ruffle collar is so wide that it covers the shoulders too. I have paired it with a new skirt reviewed in my last blog post here.

 

Pattern Hints:

    There didn't seem to be any anomalies when drawing out this pattern. The only trouble I ran into was when trying to connect the dots for the huge circular collar. The back of the collar is a very large, sweeping curve so I couldn't find any spot on my rulers that would connect the dots. I ended up just drawing in the curve by hand and then adjusting it further in sections with my ruler.

 

Design Changes:

    When I initially saw this pattern I was attracted to the ruffled collar. I wanted to exaggerate the ruffles but I'm afraid I may have gone too far. I sliced open the pattern piece in four places around the half circle, leaving the slits attached at the inner edge. I spread the slits about a half inch in each spot and added paper behind to complete the pattern piece. My mistake was where I added the fullness. I should have only added the fullness in the back. Because two of my additions were at the shoulder and the front I ended up with quite a bit of ruffling around the button placket. I don't hate it but it wasn't exactly what I was aiming for. Before I put the pattern away I removed this fullness in the collar piece.

    Because my collar was more ruffly, even where it joined the neckline, I decided to add a facing on the inside rather than the binding that seems to be suggested. This worked really well so I will do this again in future iterations. The only other change was to add some long fitting darts both in the front and back. This blouse really is as loose and billowy as it appears in the fashion drawing.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

    My blouse is made up in a lightweight cotton/poly fabric. I would say this is a lawn fabric but I'm not 100% certain. This was an inherited fabric from a dear neighbor. This blouse pattern, although recommended for a woven, could probably be made from a knit fabric as long as it's lightweight and drapey. The important point here is that your fabric, either woven or knit, is both lightweight and drapeable. Any stiffness to your fabric will result in a collar that stands out at the shoulders and a bodice that billows out way from the body.

 

Closing Hints:

    Now that I've figured out the fullness in the ruffled collar I would say this pattern is a keeper. It feels feminine and flirty but still not too formal. I like how it dresses up a simple skirt or jeans without looking too fussy. I'll likely make another one in a print fabric just for fun. This should make a really nice transition from Spring to Summer.

 

Here's hoping you find some favorite patterns of your own for some Spring or Summer sewing. Until next time.....

 

Happy sewing from,

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive

Supplement 272 - Model #212 - 2009

Jeans style skirt with shaped waistband

 

   Hello again Lutterloh sewists. I know it's been a minute since I last posted a project. My son moved just days before Christmas and needed help with some home decor projects. He's all settled in now so I can work on my own stuff again. I had this skirt cut out before Christmas but just wasn't able to finish until recently. I'm so glad I did since this will be a great transition piece for Winter/Spring.

 

Pattern Hints:

   There were no issues enlarging this pattern to my size. My personal fitting adjustments were easy enough to apply. All of the necessary darts are cleverly drafted into the yoke in back and between the pockets and shaped waistband in the front.

 

Design Changes:

  This pattern is a very classic style straight skirt with a shaped waistband. It's not a pencil skirt that narrows at the hem. It just follows a fairly straight silhouette from the full hip. There are no back pockets but there is a back yoke. I had to go back quite a few years in my pattern collection to find this classic that included a shaped waistband but wasn't designed for stretch fabric. Most of the more recent patterns were either designed for stretch fabric or had a straight waistband rather than the shaped style that I prefer. The only minor tweaks I made were to leave off the tiny coin pocket and the belt loops. Oh, and I did make the side pockets deeper because, why not?

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

   This version is made up in a wide wale, 100% cotton corduroy. I still have at least half the bolt left but that's OK. I find a neutral color corduroy makes a great transition fabric for the mild California climate. Because of the classic shape of this skirt it could be made up in so many different fabrics. Denim or twill would always be appropriate but there's no reason it couldn't be made in a more lightweight fabric.

 

Closing Hints:

   The timeless nature of this skirt really lends itself to so many possibilities. I may make another one in a lightweight twill to take me into Spring/Summer. I'm already working on a lightweight blouse that could really dress this skirt up for a Spring outing. We'll just have to see if some other project calls to me before I find the right fabric for another skirt.

 

Until next time then, 

Happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.               

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive

Supplement 269 Model #198 - 2008

  Crossover Knit T-shirt  

    

    Hello again fellow Lutterloh enthusiasts. I think I found a much better pattern for the ideal crossover T- shirt. I knew I had seen it quite a while ago. Turns out that was back in 2008. That's alright, it was worth flipping through all those patterns to find this one. 

 

Pattern Hints:

    Like most Lutterloh patterns I found this easy enough to draw out and alter for my figure. Even the sleeve was simple to lengthen for a 3/4 length sleeve. 

 

Design Changes:

    Other than lengthening the sleeves and body to my liking this pattern came together just as intended. You end up with a fairly close fitting T-shirt with a nice crossover detail in front. I didn't even adjust the angle of the crossover neckline. This pattern sports a gentle curve across the front that gives you an open V neckline that is not too deep. 

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

    This Lutterloh pattern calls for a knit fabric and there's really no way around it with this close of a fit. If you need a pattern for a slightly less stretchy fabric check out this post from last month. My peacock blue shirt is a fine rib knit trimmed with a strip of striped rayon knit. There are so many options for making this basic pattern your own.

 

Closing Hints:

    I am so glad I persevered to find the right pattern for the shirt I had in mind. This style of T-shirt is a staple in my wardrobe and now I can make it in any color that I like. Yay sewing! If, like me, you wear a lot of T-shirts in your daily routine then I highly recommend this one. It's basic enough to feel as comfortable as your standard ladies T-shirt but with lots of room for adding your own character. 

 

 

Here's hoping you and yours a merry holiday season. Happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.     

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 334 - Model #207 - 2024

Crossover front blouse for stretch fabric

 

   Hello again Lutterloh fans. I liked the look of this crossover style shirt but I'm afraid I misinterpreted the clues I should have gotten from the fashion drawing. I was going for a crossover front style T-shirt and although this blouse pattern is marked with the knit symbol it was not the best starting point.

 

Pattern Hints:

   There was no problem enlarging this pattern to my size. My problems began before I ever started plotting the dots for the pattern. This pattern is labeled with "NN", the symbol for a blouse. I should have looked more closely at the fashion drawing for the clues about the fit.

   The red arrow in the picture above points to a looser, blouse like, fit. The shoulders are also wider allowing for a looser fit in the upper chest area. The picture below shows the pattern pieces and back view of this pattern. The back view shows a rather boxy shape to this blouse. You can see that there is not much shaping at the waist. The sleeve is also loose and flowing, not at all like a T-shirt. I should have known better but plowed ahead anyway.

 

 Design Changes:

   I initially sewed up this shirt with no design changes except to narrow and shorten the sleeves. I did end up with a boxy, loose blouse in a knit fabric. Because I was hoping for more of a close fitting T-shirt I ended up taking in both side seams by ¾". This constitutes a reduction in circumference of 3 full inches. This should give you an idea of how much ease is added to this pattern. The shoulders also seemed wide and square to me. If I had adjusted the slope on the shoulder seam I could have probably eliminated the wrinkling around my armpits. When I realized this shirt was also a little shorter than I like, despite adding my regular amount to the length, I knew I had to look for another pattern.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

   For my light blue shirt I used a lightweight fine ribbed knit. Obviously this was not the best choice since this is supposed to be a blouse. I did see some lovely stretch chiffon while shopping at JoAnn Fabrics the other day. This is probably closer to what the designer had in mind for this pattern. Perhaps a rayon or bamboo knit with more drape could work as well.

 

Closing Hints:

   Even though this shirt didn't turn out exactly as I had planned I will still wear it. I love the color and it is very comfortable so it has that going for it.  I'm sure if I look back further in my Lutterloh supplements I'll find a T-shirt pattern that is closer to my vision of the perfect front crossover T-shirt. In the mean time I have a nice wearable muslin in a color that suits me.

 

Until next time then, happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 313 - Model#42 - 2019    

   Hi there Lutterloh fans. We're having, what I hope, is the last heat wave of the season. I'm wishing for cooler weather so decided to make these lightweight pants for the transition. I looked for a wider leg but with the ease of an elastic waist. This pattern fit the bill nicely.

Pattern Hints:  

   There were no problems drawing out this pattern. It's a pretty basic pattern that can be used for many looks depending on the fabric choice. I didn't use the pocket pattern for these pants because I have a favorite pocket pattern that I know works with so many patterns. There's no point in reinventing the wheel. 😉 

 

Design Changes:

   As mentioned this is a straight forward pattern that just needs some personal fitting fixes. The fashion drawing does show slits on the inseams of these pants. I didn't want the legs to be any wider or floppier so I sewed the entire inseam, top to bottom. 

No pockets in the back make this a quick sew. Side seam pockets sew up fast and you can place them anywhere on the side seam to suit your preference.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

   My fabric for these pants is a nice 100% cotton oxford cloth. It's just the right weight to transition into some cooler weather. I told my husband "All I need now is an invitation to a yacht party 😜! Not likely, but a girl can dream. 

   Since there is no knit symbol on this pattern we can assume that many different woven fabrics will do. Of course a stretch fabric could be used with perhaps deeper seam allowances depending on the amount of stretch. I see this as a very useful pattern now that I've adjusted the fit. 

 

Closing Hints:

    I'm so glad I took the time to get this pattern to fit well. I already have plans for a couple more pairs in flannel and maybe chambray or rayon challis. This basic pull on pants pattern is a keeper! 

 

Here's hoping you find some favorites in your Lutterloh patterns. Until next time...

Happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.     

Lutterloh Patterns - Fashion Flashback

 Der Goldene Schnitt - 1939 Book Box   

Vintage apron altered for cross back style

 

   Hello folks, I hope your Summer is going swimmingly. I needed a gift for a friend and, since she is an avid gardener and a fan of vintage, I thought this apron would be perfect. She had mentioned that she'd seen some cross back style aprons in a gardening store and I knew that I could replicate one in her favorite colors with just a little alteration of this vintage pattern. 

 

The Pattern:                         

   This pattern appears in several of my vintage books. The photo above shows the pattern pieces that needed to be enlarged. The red "Xes" indicate the pieces that I didn't use since this was going to be a cross back style. I found it interesting that none of my books where this pattern appears included a back view or even any suggestion for a closure or length for ties.  Clearly this must have been such a ubiquitous article of everyday wear that they felt it wasn't necessary. The photos below are of my vintage book which opens into an actual box to hold the patterns.           

The Alterations:  

   Because I was changing this to a cross back style, I didn't need to draw out the back pattern piece. After researching patterns for this style I discovered that only the front of the apron is needed to create the back pattern piece. The front of this apron is made up of two separate pattern pieces but I was able to tape these two together to make one front pattern piece. Below is a photo of how I created the pattern piece for the cross over back.

    I started by cutting the front pattern piece more curved on the bottom rather than the point shown in the original. In order to create the back cross over I needed to copy the front pattern twice so I had a complete front. The red lines drawn in are approximately where I drew the curve for my cross over back. Of course the pattern lines were much smoother but its difficult to draw with my mouse. The back pattern was cut along my red lines, including the right shoulder strap, and along the left side seam. The rest of the pattern was discarded. The grainline for the back was drawn in on the line where the two fronts were joined together. The front pattern piece was cut on the fold of the fabric just like the original apron and I cut two of the back pattern piece with the fabric right sides together. I wanted my apron to be reversible so I cut these pieces again in a coordinating fabric.  

 

The Sewing:

   Sewing this apron together was a breeze. For each fabric I sewed the side seams together, which matched perfectly because they're drawn from an identical pattern piece. I left my shoulder seams open because I wanted to make this apron reversible. I placed my aprons right sides together and sewed around all the edges except the ends of the shoulder straps. I then turned the entire apron out through one shoulder strap. To finish I pressed in a small seam allowance on the back straps, crossed over the back pieces and tucked the front straps just inside those back straps. The shoulder straps were then top stitched closed. Once everything got a good pressing I had a fully reversible apron.

Conclusion:

   I have found that with so many Lutterloh patterns in my collection that I can almost always create whatever style I like with just a few pattern alterations. I know the fit will be right because I've already worked out my personal pattern adjustments with the basic patterns. I certainly hope you consider using your patterns in this way since it opens up so many more possibilities from your Lutterloh patterns. 

 

Until next time then, happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif. 

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 332 - Model #23 - 2024

Shirt Dress with cut on sleeves

 

    Hello again from California. It's taking a while for the weather to warm up here but I thought I would get a jump on some sewing for Spring/Summer. The pattern for this dress is such a simple shape but a belt transforms it into a chic piece to dress up or down for lots of occasions.

 

Pattern Hints:

    As I mentioned, this pattern is a very simple shape including straight sides, cut on sleeves and POCKETS. There are only 4 pattern pieces to enlarge, front, back, collar and pocket. From the symbols included it appears as though the front facing should be folded back on itself but I believe there may be a mistake. Below is a picture of the front pattern piece. The only symbols I erased are the numbers to enlarge it to your size.

    The dashed line, to the right of the button symbols, would appear to suggest that you should fold here to form a facing. However, when I enlarged my pattern, I found that if I folded the pattern here that not only was the neckline the wrong shape to fit the collar but it was also too short. I believe there are symbols missing here to indicate a separate facing to be sewn onto the the front edge. When I measured the length of the neckline and the length of the collar I found them to be nearly identical. The red line is where I drew my actual facing because I knew I wouldn't button this dress all the way to the top. 

    Like others have found, the collar pattern draws out taller than the fashion drawing shows. Mine ended up about 1 ⅛" high. When I measured some items in my closet I found this type of collar to be only around ¾" tall. It was easy enough to adjust this when I added the seam allowances.

 

Design Changes:

    Other than the changes to the facing shape and collar I only made one other style alteration to this dress pattern. I found that the length on this dress would hit right at the largest part of my calf. I know this length just doesn't suit me so I cut it without a hem allowance and then folded the bottom up 3 inches so it now falls just to the bottom of my knees. To give the hem a little bit of weight I applied fusible interfacing at a width of 1 ½" and folded this up twice.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

    This version of the pattern is made up in a soft, quilting weight cotton. I had a nice big piece in my stash in shades of blue that just makes me happy. I was hoping to use some flower shaped buttons but found the selection at JoAnn Fabrics to be slim pickings. 

    The pattern does suggest a woven fabric for this dress and I can imagine using a rayon blend, chambray or even a silky type fabric for a dressier version. This would probably work in a medium weight knit as long as it was stable on the lengthwise grain.

 

Closing Hints:

    For the simple shape of this pattern I'm pleasantly surprised with the outcome. It will definitely be put away for future use. I will admit that without the belt this dress is pretty straight and sack like. I am hoping after a few washes that the fabric will soften a little. Even if it does wrinkle in the dryer the basic shape should be easy enough to iron in a jiffy.

 

Here's hoping the Spring weather will brighten your days.

 

Until next time then, happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 332 - Model #5 - 2024

Loose fitting, full figure, knit top

 

   Hi there fellow Lutterloh sewists. Spring is almost here and the newest Lutterloh supplement is full of promise for a new wardrobe! This recent top seemed like a good start to ease into some warmer weather. It's another full figure pattern adapted to fit my less than full figure.

 

Pattern Hints:

   This pattern surprised me a little with a very loose fit and longer length. I anticipated a looser top from examining the pattern lines but the fashion drawing, with the hand in her pocket, disguised the true length of this top. It hits just at the bottom of the crotch. That's not really long enough to be a tunic but certainly longer than the average T-shirt. Below is the miniature of the pattern pieces.

 

  You can see that there isn't much shaping at the waist. The red lines are roughly where I reduced the waist for a slightly closer fitting top. The center back seam also gives a little more opportunity for more shaping at the waist. Because this is a full figure pattern I used a number on the Lutterloh scale that was a full 5 dots less than my actual measurement. Even though this represents a pattern that is 10cm less than my normal measurement it still produced a fairly loose fitting top. 

 

Style Changes:

   As mentioned above I ended up taking in this top at the waist at all the seams. In addition to being a looser fitting top I also found the length to be too long for my liking. I ended up cutting off 2 inches from the bottom to get a more standard T-shirt length top. This pattern, if extended quite a bit, might also make a pretty nice dress pattern. The ruching, below the V neck, is quite flattering for a larger bust and would probably help disguise a thicker waist if made up in the original looser fit. 

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

   My lavender fabric is close to a medium weight interlock knit. This may have contributed to my dislike of the original fit. A lighter weight, clingier knit may have been more appropriate. Now, looking at the photo, I may even take the seams in further to get a closer fit for this particular fabric. If I make this again I'll look for a rayon or bamboo blend or perhaps an ITY knit. This probably isn't a pattern that would work well in a stretch woven unless it was much closer fitting with a zipper opening.

 

Closing Hints:

    After the alterations I do like the way this top turned out. My only reservation would be that the strap in the center of the ruching was a little fiddly to apply. I was afraid that if I top-stitched it that the gathers would be distorted. I ended up hand tacking the center strap on from the inside all the way up to the neckline. I tried the top on before the strap was applied but it just didn't look finished without it. For the future I'll try to figure out another way to apply the strap.

 

Until next time then, happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.           

My Favorite Blouse

 Supplement 267 - Model #48 - 2007 

Collarless Blouse converted to front button style

   Hello again Lutterloh fans. I'll be taking a vacation soon to warm, sunny, southern California so I was looking through my closet and realized these blouses would be perfect. These aren't new but I thought I would share how I converted this pattern to a front button style instead of the intended side zipper opening.

 

The Pattern:

    The original pattern suggests a side zipper opening with the front pieces cut on the fold. I admit I have never made this blouse in its original form. From the first time I saw it I knew I would alter it. Below is a pic of the front pattern pieces which are drawn as one and then cut apart into upper and lower bodice. 

   You can see the symbol for a side zipper on the right of the photo. The red line indicates where I extended the neckline and center front by 3/4 of an inch. This allowed me to add a button placket for 5/8 inch buttons. I cut my 2 inch wide facing before I cut the top and bottom apart thus avoiding the extra bulk where the seams would meet. The blue line is a rough drawing of how I shaped the front facing. The back neck facing was cut at the same width. After my initial test of this pattern I felt the lower front bodice could use a little more shaping so I sewed a small dart in the lower bodice just under the bust gathers indicated by the green lines. You can see that first version on Sewing Pattern Review here.

 

Style Changes:

    I decided to cut the puff sleeve much shorter for the white version and leave the sleeves off altogether for the orange version. The arm hole is plenty high enough to wear this as a sleeveless blouse. Rather than arm hole facings I bound the arm holes of the orange blouse with bias tape. 

   Model #46 shows this blouse with a tie collar. Instead, to my white blouse, I added a lace collar which I embroidered onto 2 layers of organza. Both models of this pattern have a back bodice cut in one piece with long double ended darts for waist shaping. This allows for waist shaping for any figure since you can make them wider or narrower to your preference.

 

Fabrics:

     So far I have made this blouse in a variety of fabrics. The blouses in the photo are made up in a white striped seersucker and an orange/red quilting cotton. I have also made this in lightweight flannel and a slightly sheer Swiss dot. Obviously the lighter the fabric the sooner the blouse wore out. For a dressier look a silky fabric would work too. This could even be made in a stable knit with some adjustments for stretch. 

 

Conclusion:

    What makes this my favorite blouse pattern is that it can be made in so many fabrics. With a little imagination for the collar, sleeve and embellishment variations, you too can have a wardrobe of blouses in your closet. Since I have the bodice fitted to my liking I may even experiment with cutting the back piece at the same level as the front so a flowy, gathered bottom portion could be added. I do love the versatility of a well fitted pattern.

   I would strongly encourage you to think outside the box with your Lutterloh patterns. Sometimes with just a little tweaking you can end up with your very own favorite pattern.

 

I hope the new year is bringing you time to sew with your Lutterloh patterns.

Happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.